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比利时时尚故事|时尚的你一定不可错过的“安特卫普六君子”AntwerpSix

2022-11-30 12:17:05 2981

摘要:比利时一直以来以巧克力、啤酒和钻石最为著名,但是你知道比利时也是一个时尚大国吗?每一位资深时尚人士,都应该知道安特卫普皇家艺术学院。Belgium is usually thought of as the country of chocol...

比利时一直以来以巧克力、啤酒和钻石最为著名,但是你知道比利时也是一个时尚大国吗?每一位资深时尚人士,都应该知道安特卫普皇家艺术学院。

Belgium is usually thought of as the country of chocolate, beer and diamonds, but did you know it was also the country of fashion? Any respectable fashion connoisseur should know of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp.

The Antwerp Royal Academy of Fine Arts

比利时安特卫普皇家艺术学院创建于1663年,它向世界输送了大量设计鬼才。随着80年代 “安特卫普六君子”的崛起,学院声名鹊起、广为熟知。

Founded in 1663, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp has produced a large number of quirky designers for the world. The academy rose to fame and gained recognition with the rise of the Antwerp Six in the 1980"s.

我国近几年很火的服装设计师裘淑婷(Shuting Qiu)和Di Du都是从安特卫普皇家艺术学院毕业的(点击这里了解更多设计师裘淑婷的故事)。一个擅于用几何和色彩玩爆破(之所以裘淑婷能有这样的设计风格,也多亏了她的老师Walter Van Beirendonck),一个喜欢让每一个女性展现出Diva般的自信力量。

Shuting Qiu and Di Du, Chinese fashion designers that have gained much popularity in recent years, are graduates of the Royal Academy. (Do you want to learn more about Shuting Qiu? Click here!) The former is good at bold pattern mixing and color combinations. (Qiu’s designing style is credited to her professor Walter Van Beirendonck), and the latter encourages every woman to showcase the confidence of a Diva.

裘淑婷

Shuting Qiu

(右四)裘淑婷,(右六)Walter Van Beirendonck

那么,常常被人提到嘴边的“安特卫普六君子”究竟是谁?他们是指1980年代初期在欧洲时尚界崛起的六位比利时时装设计师,见下图。由于六位设计师都是从1980至1981年毕业于安特卫普皇家艺术学院,故称为“安特卫普六君子”。

Then who are the “Antwerp Six” that people often refer to? They refer to the six Belgian fashion designers who emerged in the European fashion world in the early 1980s. See the picture below. Since they all graduated from Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp between 1980 to 1981, they are called " Antwerp Six".

The Antwerp Six

Initial Chapter

Antwerp Six

“六君子”是怎么来的?

Who are the Antwerp Six?

1987年,当时的六人不满足于将自己的设计仅仅在学校展示,于是在他们的老师琳达•洛帕 (Linda Loppa) 的带领下,他们一起租了一辆大巴车,赶往了伦敦时装周。

当时并不受重视的他们,被安排到了二楼的一个隐秘角落。好在最终德赖斯·范诺顿(Dries Van Noten)被巴尼斯百货公司的买手看中,并且开始向他订货。从此,他们开启了时尚前卫领军之路。

Back in 1987, a group of six graduates from the Royal Academy were not satisfied with showcasing their design works only at school, so, led by their teacher Linda Loppa, they loaded their collections into a van and drove to London Fashion Week to show off their avant-garde creations.

The six were completely unknown at the event, and their presentations were only given a small space on the first floor. Fortunately, Dries Van Noten caught the eye of a buyer from Barneys New York who began to place orders from him. This moment marked the beginning of fame for the six’s avant-garde fashion creations.

Ann Demeulemeester

安·迪穆拉米斯特

安于1985年和老公帕特里克·罗宾创立了同名品牌Ann Demeulemeester。她一直以黑白的暗黑色系为主腔调,三十年里她运用过的色彩少得可怜。除了对色彩的把控,她还专注于服装版型和材质的重组。

她的作品,常常会让消费者感叹:这些衣服舒适到几乎让人感觉不到它们的存在。从此,Ann Demeulemeester变成了每一个ARCHIVE玩家的必备藏品。

In 1985, Demeulemeester released her own line, Ann Demeulemeester, in collaboration with her husband, Patrick Robyn. The label, renowned for its black and white hues, has barely used bright color regimes over the past three decades, but pays close attention to details and fabrics.

The consumers would often exclaim that her collections are so comfortable that you can’t feel their existence. Ann Demeulemeester has become the must-have for every ARCHIVE collector.

不过在2013年,Ann也选择退出了自己的同名品牌店。直到八年后,即前不久2021年的9月份,她开办了自己的旗舰店。如果你有机会去到安特卫普,一定要去看看她在皇家美术博物馆对面的旗舰店。

However, in 2013, Ann left her eponymous fashion house, but reopened her flagship store eight years later, in September 2021. If you ever go through Antwerp, be sure to check out her flagship store opposite of the Royal Museum of Fine Arts.

Marina Yee

玛丽娜·易

玛丽娜·易(Marina Yee)才华无限,却是六君子中最默默无闻的一位。注重精神和尊重是她作品中所体现的要素。玛丽娜·易有一套自己的解构主义创作程序,甚至还影响到了她的男友兼合作伙伴马丁·马吉拉——同样也是比利时一名非常出色的时装设计师。

Marina Yee, a talented but most elusive member of the Antwerp Six, values spirit and respect in her collections. She has her own way to reconstruct clothes and textiles, which has influenced her colleague and then boyfriend Martin Margiela, which is also a very popular Belgian designer.

但遗憾的是,没有什么是永恒的。玛丽娜·易最终放弃了她的时尚事业,一部分原因在于她觉得自己的设计与创作根本无法摆脱马吉拉的影子,但是最主要的原因是因为她对行业量产的不屑,正如玛丽娜·易自己所言:我并不想服务于量产,只想做一个小工。

Unfortunately, nothing lasts forever, and Marina Yee ended up giving up on fashion, partly because she couldn’t get rid of the influence of Margiela on her creations, but mostly because of a disdain for the mass production industry: Marina Yee doesn’t want to produce for the masses, she wants to “tinker”, as she says herself.

Walter Van Beirendonck

瓦尔特·范贝伦东克

出生于1957年的瓦尔特·范贝伦东克,有着一副凶狠的外表和满脸的大胡子。

他自己的同名服装品牌擅长将艺术,文学、音乐和当下热点作为创作灵感的基础。用色彩奔放且充满叛逆感的街头风格,去讨论社会时事。

Born in 1957, Walter Van Beirendonck is mainly recognizable by his fierce look and long beard.

His eponymous label is inspired by the visual arts, literature, music and trending topics. He uses unusual color combinations and rebellious street styles to discuss current events in society.

Walter

Van Beirendonck

除了赚钱,他还会回到安特卫普皇家艺术学院教书,培育着新一代的鬼才学生。

Apart from designing, he also teaches at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts to educate the new generation of talents.

Dries Van Noten

德赖斯·范诺顿

德赖斯·范诺顿作为天主教学生,每天西装革履的他,俨然一副三好学生的样子。

他的风格独树一帜,并注重作品的穿着效果。异域民族风、怀旧感、层次感是范诺顿的独特签名。他的品牌并没有高级时装;所有设计都是成衣,并在零售店出售。他的服装店铺遍布世界各地,亚洲包括香港、东京和新加坡等地。

On the complete opposite of Van Beirendonck, we have Dries Van Noten, the exemplary student, always seen wearing a sharp tailored suit.

His style is one of a kind, and values the wearable effect of the collections. Exotic ethnic style, sense of vintage and heavy use of layering define his aesthetic. The brand does not offer haute couture; all of its designs are ready to wear and available at retail. He now has shops all over the world, including Hong Kong, Tokyo and Singapore.

就连最毒舌的时装评论家苏西·门克斯(Suzy Menkes)都忍不住对他大放褒奖之词,夸他别具一格。

Suzy Menkes, a fashion critic known for her sharp critiques, spoke highly of his works as distinctive.

Dirk Bikkembergs

迪尔克·比肯贝赫斯

迪尔克·比肯贝赫斯毕业之后开设了一条运动线服装品牌,常常为为欧洲各大足球队提供服装。不仅如此,他的公司还会研发面料,并请真正的运动员试穿加以改进。

Dirk Bikkembergs launched his sports line after graduation, supplying football dress for European football clubs. His company also does fabric R&D and all his designs are tested and promoted by football players.

Dirk

Bikkembergs

但时不时的,他还是会举办个人时装秀。他经常说:“我与时尚结缘,并会保持忠诚。”

The designer also hosts his own fashion shows once in a while. He once stated, “I am married to fashion and will remain faithful.”

Dirk Van Saene

迪尔克·范萨纳

迪尔克·范萨纳毕业后开设了一家名为“ Beauties and Heroes ”的商店来出售他的设计。

范萨纳以他的创造力和拒绝追随潮流而闻名,他坚持运用自己的想象力进行原创设计。

在他的早期设计中,就以其设计的独创性得到了认可,彼时的他炙手可热,但却十分低调。

他经常以不同艺术形式表达自己——除服装外,他还进行绘画和雕塑的创作。

After graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Dirk Van Saene opened his first shop, Beauties and Heroes, selling his designs.

The designer is best known for his creativity, and for his refusal to follow trends; instead using his imagination to remain original.

In his early designs, his originality had been well-recognized and he emerged as a popular yet low-profile design genius.

He expresses himself in many different forms of art: next to garments, he also makes paintings and sculptures.

Final Chapter

Antwerp Six

安特卫普六君子

有人选择淡然退出舞台,有人选择用一腔热血持续热爱,不同的人生轨迹,更像是一部电影的谢幕。但无论如何,他们为那个时代创造了一场传奇,也为比利时时尚赢得了声誉。

In the Antwerp Six, some opted out of the fashion circle and some continue to devote their passion to design. All in all, they are all responsible for creating a legend and giving a reputation to the world of Belgian Fashion.

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